Introduction
The Abbey of San Mercuriale is a prominent historical and religious site located in Piazza Aurelio Saffi, at the heart of Forlì, in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy. Renowned as the most famous building in Forlì, the Abbey holds a significant place as one of the symbols of the city and the entire Emilia-Romagna region. It is an important ecclesiastical structure that holds the dignity of a minor basilica. The Basilica Abbey of San Mercuriale serves as the primary religious building in Forlì, standing as a monumental testament to the city’s spiritual heritage. The Abbey was constructed in the 8th century, dedicated to Saint Mercuriale, the first bishop of Forlì, and it holds a rich history. The cathedral of Forlì, which was once the main place of worship, was severely damaged by fire in the 19th century and largely destroyed. In contrast, the Abbey of San Mercuriale has preserved much of its original grandeur, maintaining its religious and cultural significance to this day.
From the Origins to the First Development
The Abbey of San Mercuriale has a complex and storied history, particularly regarding its foundation and early years, which remain somewhat obscure due to limited documentation. It is believed that the original church stood outside the city’s urban core, separated by the course of the Rabbi River or its tributaries. Early Christian communities gathered in this area, evidenced by the presence of a cemetery and a place of worship, which may have been established during the episcopate of Saint Mercuriale, the first bishop of Forlì, around the 5th century. Saint Mercuriale, who led the Christian community of Forlì, was buried in a burial ground to the east of the city. This burial tradition, which was common until the 5th century, prohibited interments within the city walls. Some scholars propose that the first cathedral of Forlì might have stood on the site of the current abbey and was later moved to the city center in the Church of Santa Croce. However, other scholars contend that the bishop’s seat was always located in Santa Croce, with the abbey serving as a plebeian center outside the walls of the city.
According to the 15th-century chronicler Leone Cobelli, the site of the abbey was originally occupied by a church dedicated to Saint Stephen, the first Christian martyr. This may have been the precursor to the church dedicated to Saint Mercuriale, reflecting a shift in focus from Saint Stephen to the local patron saint after his relics were transferred to a new religious building. The feast day of Saint Mercuriale, observed on April 30, is thought to commemorate the day these relics were moved. The first official mention of the Abbey of San Mercuriale appears in an 894 document found in the historical archive of the Vallombrosan Order. The deed refers to a donation of land made to Leone, the abbot of San Mercuriale, by Archbishop Domenico Ublatella of Ravenna. The deed specifies that the abbey was located “non longe a civitate Liviensi” (“not far from the city of Forlì”).
Additional details about the abbey’s early history can be found in the Libro Biscia, a record book containing data about the city from the 10th to 12th centuries. This book lists several deeds involving the abbey, including land swaps and privileges granted to the monks. Excavations conducted in 1951 revealed the foundations of the earliest church on the site, which was oriented in the same direction as the current building. The remains of an ancient crypt were uncovered, and the Romanesque crypt was later constructed atop it.
The Late Middle Ages
In 1173, a devastating fire caused by the conflict between the Guelphs and Ghibellines destroyed much of Forlì, including the original abbey church. The reconstruction of the abbey began in the Romanesque style, and the new building was larger and more elevated to avoid flooding from the nearby river. By 1181, the church was sufficiently rebuilt for Bishop Alessandro to preach there. The new church was a three-nave structure with three apses and a central altar supported by a large crypt. The church’s bell tower, which still stands today, was part of this construction. Romanesque features, such as a porch, were incorporated, but only minimal traces remain, including two marble drop-shaped brackets on either side of the portal. The interior of the church was further enhanced with decorative sculptures, including a stylophorus lion, a remnant of a monument erected on the Campo dell’Abate in the 13th century.
The wealth and prestige of the Abbey of San Mercuriale were reflected in its expansion and the quality of craftsmanship involved in its decoration. The monastery received numerous donations, especially from Bishop Alessandro, who granted the abbey extensive land holdings in the region. These donations allowed the abbey to become an independent entity, free from episcopal control, and even fostered tensions between the abbot and the successive bishops of Forlì. During the 12th century, the city of Forlì expanded, and the church was gradually incorporated into the urban fabric. The construction of two new side chapels in the 14th century, connected by a Gothic portico, transformed the appearance of the abbey. The original porch was replaced by a Gothic-style portal, and in 1585, the apse was rebuilt.
The Renaissance and Early Modern Period
By the 15th century, the Abbey of San Mercuriale had grown into a significant religious and cultural center. The cloister was added to the abbey during this period, featuring slender columns and a central well, and became part of the Vallombrosan monastic complex. Several noble families and local brotherhoods contributed to the construction of side chapels within the church, further enriching its artistic and architectural heritage. The church’s apse underwent significant modifications in the 16th century, including a new wooden choir designed by Alessandro Begni and the rebuilding of the altar. The work was commissioned following the collapse of the vault in 1505, which had destroyed the crypt and buried the relics of Saint Mercuriale. After a period of restoration, the relics were rediscovered in 1575 and moved to a dedicated chapel. In 1581, a relic of Saint John Gualbert, the founder of the Vallombrosan Order, was added to the abbey. During this period, a new Renaissance cloister was also constructed, decorated with frescoes that depicted scenes from the life of Saint John Gualbert.
The Baroque Period and Beyond
In the 17th century, the church underwent significant renovations under the direction of Abbot Garei. The façade was remodeled in a Baroque style, including the demolition of two side chapels and the opening of new doors. The bell tower also underwent modifications, and the church’s interior was transformed to reflect the new Baroque religious ideals. By the late 18th century, the abbey’s role as a religious institution began to wane. The French Revolution and the Napoleonic era led to the dissolution of monastic orders in Italy, and the monks of San Mercuriale were expelled in 1796. The church retained its religious significance but was no longer an abbey. In 1958, Pope John XXIII elevated the church to the status of a minor basilica.
The 20th Century and Restoration
In the early 20th century, the Abbey of San Mercuriale underwent a series of restoration efforts aimed at preserving its historical integrity. The façade was reworked to restore its medieval appearance, and several side chapels were demolished to make way for new entrances. During the restoration work, the original Romanesque features of the church were revealed, including terracotta flooring and Venetian mosaic designs. The church suffered significant damage during an air raid in 1944, which led to further restoration work. Excavations uncovered remnants of the original proto-Christian church and subsequent structures, further enriching the historical understanding of the site. A comprehensive consolidation effort was undertaken, with the goal of restoring the church’s stability while preserving its medieval architectural elements.
Architecture of Basilica Abbey of San Mercuriale, Forli, Italy
Architectural Style: Romanesque Architecture
Exterior Description
The Church of San Mercuriale is an example of Romanesque architecture built from typical red bricks found in Forlì. Its façade is characteristic of the Romanesque style, divided into three sections corresponding to the church’s three internal naves. The central nave is the largest, flanked by two smaller lateral naves. The façade features a central rose window, a lunette, and a marble portal, which is reinforced by two buttresses. The sides of the church contain arches that are remnants of former protruding chapels. The bell tower and the façade are adorned with brick decorations, including small arches supported by diminutive columns, vertical projections, and horizontal cornices, enhancing the structure’s Romanesque aesthetic.
The Cloister
The cloister of the church underwent significant restoration work under the direction of engineer Gustavo Giovannoni in the 1930s. This restoration, funded by Mussolini, came at a time when the cloister had fallen into disrepair due to centuries of abandonment and alterations. Initially, there were proposals to demolish the cloister to make way for a new courthouse and to isolate the bell tower and the church. However, Giovannoni suggested a solution to preserve the cloister while creating a connection to Piazza Saffi by demolishing the rectory and building a portico. The restoration was complicated by delays due to World War II, material shortages, and rising prices. Giovannoni’s restoration was flexible, with the architect adjusting his plans based on archaeological findings during the process. A central well, dating back to the 17th century, was restored and placed back in its original position. The frescoes in the lunettes depicting the life of Saint John Gualbert were detached, transported for restoration, and eventually returned to their original location.
The Marble Portal
The church’s marble portal is a stunning feature, comprised of thin marble columns, two of which are twisted and rise to surround a lunette depicting the Dream and Adoration of the Magi. The sculptural work is attributed to the Master of the Months of Ferrara, likely created in the early 13th century. The wooden doors of the portal are also beautifully carved and painted, divided into multiple panels. One panel, dated 1651, indicates when the doors were likely made. The fixed upper part of the doors contains reliefs of saints, including what appears to be San Mercuriale on the left and Santo Stefano on the right.
The Bell Tower
The bell tower is a distinctive feature of the Church of San Mercuriale, constructed from red bricks typical of Forlì. It stands isolated on the right side of the church and rests on a stone pedestal known as a dado. The dado’s original height was greater, but centuries of successive paving have partially buried it. The tower is square in plan and gradually narrows as it rises, with the section at the top being smaller than at the base. The tower’s design is believed to have been influenced by empirical knowledge of structural needs, rather than perspective techniques later popularized during the Renaissance.
At the top of the tower is a tall brick spire with a stone crown, weather vane, and cross, reaching a total height of 75.4 meters. The spire is surrounded by four small towers, a common feature in bell towers in the Romagna region. These towers likely date back to a major restoration in 1566 and are stylistically consistent with that period. In World War II, the bell tower was mined by retreating German forces, but it was saved by Don Giuseppe Prati, the parish priest of the time, whose actions are still remembered fondly by the people of Forlì. The bell tower houses five large bells, with four of the bells being historic. The bells are now rung using an iron frame installed in 1967, replacing the old wooden structure that caused structural issues. The ringing is now done manually or electrically, with the bell ringer able to play several bells at once using cords.
Interior Description
The interior of the church is designed in a basilica plan with three naves, separated by brick pillars and columns. The floor of the central nave slopes toward the apse, creating the illusion of a more slender nave. Originally, the presbytery was located about five meters in front of the apse and was inclined in the opposite direction.
Right Aisle
The right aisle begins with a baptismal font, now used as a holy water stoup. The font, carved from local stone, dates back to the 16th century and features a hexagonal marble base decorated with acanthus leaves. The aisle is lined with 23 lunettes that were transferred from the cloister to the interior during restoration work in the 20th century. These frescoes depict scenes from the life of Saint John Gualbert, the founder of the Vallombrosan Order, and are attributed to the artist Livio Modigliani. A notable tomb in the aisle is dedicated to Barbara Manfredi, a noblewoman who died in the 15th century. The funeral monument, created by Francesco di Simone Ferrucci, was originally placed in the Church of San Biagio but was relocated to San Mercuriale after the church was bombed during World War II.
The aisle also features an oval painting by Giacomo Zampa, which depicts Saint Mercuriale blessing a model of the city, presented to him by an angel. Following this, the first chapel, known as the “Palmezzano Chapel,” houses frescoes in deteriorating condition. The altar features an altarpiece by Marco Palmezzano, depicting the Madonna and Child surrounded by saints, dated to 1510. At the end of the aisle is a stone cross from the Early Middle Ages, which was relocated from the parish cemetery of Castiglione to the church in 1933. The right aisle culminates in a chapel dedicated to Saint Mercuriale, which contains works by Domenico Crespi, Cigoli, and Livio and Gianfrancesco Modigliani.
Central Nave
The central nave is covered by a trussed ceiling that has undergone several remodels over the centuries. The apse is covered by a barrel vault. The nave is home to 23 frescoed lunettes, originally from the cloister, depicting the life of Saint John Gualbert. The presbytery contains several notable altarpieces, including the “Assumption of the Virgin” (1632) by Rutilio Manetti. The wooden choir, dating back to the 16th century, is the work of Alessandro Begni.
Left Aisle
In the left aisle, a fragment of a fresco attributed to Guglielmo degli Organi can be found. The aisle also leads to the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, decorated with several works by various artists, including a “Crucifix with Saints Giovanni Gualberto and Maria Maddalena” by Palmezzano. Additionally, the Ferri Chapel is located in this aisle, containing marble decorations by Jacopo Bianchi and an altarpiece of the Immaculate Conception by Marco Palmezzano.
Feast Day
Feast Day : 26 October
The feast day of the Basilica Abbey of San Mercuriale in Forlì, Italy is celebrated on October 26. This date marks the transfer of the relics of Saint Mercurialis to the basilica in 1601. The feast was originally observed on April 30 but was moved to October 26 to avoid overlap with the feast day of Saint Peregrine on May 1.
Church Mass Timing
Monday : 8:00 AM
Tuesday : 8:00 AM
Wednesday : 8:00 AM
Thursday : 8:00 AM
Friday : 8:00 AM
Saturday : 8:00 AM
Sunday : 11:00 AM, 7:00 PM
Church Opening Time:
Monday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Tuesday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Wednesday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Thursday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Friday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Saturday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Sunday : 7:30 am – 7:00 pm.
Contact Info
Address :
Piazza Aurelio Saffi, 17, 47121 Forlì FC, Italy.
Phone : +39054325653
Accommodations
Connectivities
Airway
Basilica Abbey of San Mercuriale, Forli, Italy, to Forli Airport, distance between 12 min (4.6 km) via SS 9 Via Emilia.
Railway
Basilica Abbey of San Mercuriale, Forli, Italy, to Piazzale Martiri d’Ungheria 47122 Forlì, distance between 4 min (1.4 km) via Via Giorgio Regnoli and Viale della Libertà.
